- Model is 1/35 scale
- High-quality design and casting
- Comes unassembled and unpainted
- Can be undercoated and painted like any other plastic model kit
Notes on working with resin:
Resin is a very adaptable small material that has numerous benefits over metal or plastic. Since we think resin is the greatest medium for miniatures, we cast the majority of our goods in it.
However, if you are used to working with plastic or white metal models, the resin can be a little different.
The steps you should take when dealing with resin miniatures are as follows: –
Choice of Cleaning
You’ve just anxiously unpacked your wonderful new miniatures, but you might want to clean them first before you start gluing things together. Although this step is optional, it will improve the outcome and the paint and adhesive adhesion. The resin casting molds may leave the tiniest amount of greasy residue on the surface of the sculpture, which can be cleaned. Additionally, we occasionally utilize a release agent to help the miniatures come out of their molds more readily while maintaining the greatest level of quality in the casts.
It is best to clean the surfaces because paint and adhesive can be repelled by the oil from the moulds or the release agent.
To gently brush the parts clean, use an old toothbrush and warm water mixed with “washing up liquid” (be very careful with delicate pieces to avoid snapping them). After cleaning the pieces, be careful to rinse them out and let them completely air dry.
Although thin components can occasionally be slightly twisted during shipment or storage, resin is incredibly detailed. Because resin has a “thermal memory” similar to thermoplastic, fixing it is easy. It recalls the form in which it was cast. Therefore, to heat and soften the part, simply run it under a hot faucet or use boiling water. When that happens, carefully reshape it. Imagine that you are a fictional blacksmith as you quench it in cool water to chill it, and the resin will solidify in the desired shape.
When producing minis, we aim to avoid using flash, vents, air bubbles, or other elements that can give you a headache. However, despite our best efforts, we are not (yet!) flawless, so occasionally you will need to use your hobby talents to tidy up a component. Use some hobby cutters to cut off any casting gates (also known as those rods, sprues, or supports), just like you would with plastic miniatures. With a file or hobby knife, mould lines may need to be scraped or lightly sanded* away. Flash can also be eliminated in the same manner.
Super Glue Cyanoacrylate should be used to adhere to resin. A stronger bond will result if the bond’s surface is first slightly scratched or roughened with sandpaper. Another useful tip is to dampen (not wet!) one section with water before applying glue to the other. Bonding will occur much more quickly. The same method can be used with a superglue accelerator.
Use pineapple juice (helpful and delicious) or super glue remover if you accidentally glue your fingers or something else that needs the glue removed.
Like with metal models, certain larger pieces might need to be pinned into position. Rarely, two-part epoxy glue can be used for large connections where you want the strongest possible bond.
Your model has been constructed, cleaned, and prepared.
Now that the model has been primed, you may begin painting it. We advise using a decent airbrush primer or an aerosol spray primer for light dusting.
Hopefully, that clarified a few of the key points about using our resin. We wish you luck as you put together and decorate your miniatures.
*Resin is fantastic, but while sanding or drilling it, take care not to breathe in too much dust. It might be dangerous. Therefore, while creating a lot of dust, either do it outside or use a face mask.
For this reason, we do not advise unattended children under the age of 13 to use resin miniatures.
Miniatures made of resin are not toys. Infants less than three are at risk of choking on small pieces.
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